Ok I’ve managed to slice my finger open on this grumpy old machine. I decided to send the other one back and just found this on Ebay. Happen to be going past where it was and thought well seeing as it a little over a quarter of the price of the other one I might as well get this and have a bit left over to do it up and get some nice cobalt drill bits. It’s roughly the same size although its obviously seen some unusual behaviour. Someones actually tried to spot weld the handles on and also tapped these sections and it’s still wobbly. So I think I’m going to take those out and cleaning that up, and probably just use a bit of araldite. So the motor on this is 350 watts as apposed to 500. I’m going to turn it on. It’s still quite noisy but it’s not as loud as the other one and the main this is I’m not feeling that vibration in the handle which I was with the previous one. That was a bit annoying and like I said this was a little over a quarter of the price of the previous one so I’m going to start just by taking it apart. It’s got a few potholes on the top. Not as many as some old drills. I don’t think I’m going to be able to find another cast iron top so I’m just going to have to live with it. And as with all second hand machine tools there’s something that looks like bird shit on it. There you go, god knows what that is. Probably some sort of recommence of a spiders egg pouch.

That’s where I’m going to put all the little screws and stuff.

I took the machine apart before realising I hadn’t checked the runout on the chuck.  But I’d rather not know if I’ve made it worse. I’m more concerned with comparing it with the drill I sent back in the previous video.

Going to try some painters turps. See if that get’s some of this stuff. Weird kinda resinous stuff.

A bit of butches block oil with some white spirit. I think some people refer to it as mineral oil and mineral spirit.

Ok I’ve already taken this pulley off here. The jockey pulley. And the piece of metal that it sits on. I’ve noticed that the bearings are exposed on the inside so I’m going to push this out and get a new bearing. These do feel a bit knackered. That doesn’t feel perfectly straight. There’s a bit of wobble on that.

I actually sprayed that the other night so it’s had a day and a half to soak in. This is a broken calipers that I use to undo this particular type of nut, not sure what it’s called.

So this little peg was stopping the spring coming up.

I’m just taking off this circlip with two long nose pliers and brute force. I’ve actually got a circlip or e clip pliers set coming in the post. You can see these ones are also exposed so I won’t be using these. That one is quite rattley. If I rotate this one in the light you can see they didn’t bore this one quite centred. I just sprayed two of the bearings with WD40 and it’s actually made them a little bit noisy. I think it’s reacted or done something to the grease that’s inside them. Somehow found it’s way in. This one I can feel it kinda vibrating when I’m turning it. It doesn’t sound too bad but this feels better but something feels loose in there.

Again it’s an open bearing and it feels like a lot of crap has got in there.

Ok so the next thing I’m going to do is take back some of the burs from the casting.

I think, the thing I’m going to do now is just take the fan guard off and just clean it up and smash it into shape. You can really see into that, it’s quite scary but I guess that keeps really cool.

So that’s out by 0.02mm – that’s pretty good.

I’ve just put the pulley on the motor, and I’m just checking how well it runs how true it runs. It’s about 0.2 of a mm off.

Ok I’ve just tidied up a little bit. I’ve placed the spring and the housing in some white spirit just to clean off the grease that was inside. You can see I can clean that up and apply some new lithium grease.

That’s interesting. You can see they have punched the nut in four spots there assuming to pull the thread out a little bit so it can pinch onto the… thread. I can feel that catches a little bit more once I get past that point.

Ok I’m going to replace these glands which fit along here with these IP rated ones. I just need to make this hole ever so slightly bigger.

I couldn’t find an appropriate replacement switch so I decided to use some of the spare buttons I collected during my CNC controller build and to make a new panel however I’m going to keep the original relay switch and internal electronics.

You want to make sure you select the correct wire gauge for the Amps drawn by your machine.

That is really on the piss. I’m now going to remove this handle sleeve I think it’s called from the rack. And I think it’s done by removing this pin here.

Ok I’ve just taken all the handles off the handle block. I know people get annoyed by the handles of pillar drills coming off but this is a little bit of a stupid way of kinda doing it. I think a bit of areldite or locktight in there would be fine. Alternatively could have just extended the thread, added a nut and when that was in just lock it down with the other nut. Anyway I don’t want to buy more of these. I could probably just get the bar and re-thread it but for now but for now I’m going to cut this section off and re-thread it. I tried to re-tap the original handle but quickly realised the remained of the shaft was a smaller diameter. The thread must have been press-moulded onto the bar so there’s no way of extending the thread.

Ok I managed to get a replacement for this. What was meant to be a replacement for this section here looks really different. Oh the beeps the hole is slightly bigger.

I’m going to have to stick with the original parts and just try do them up as best as I can.

After fitting those back together I began installing the bearings.

I just warmed that up in the microwave using Mr AVE’s method of swaddling the bearing in a wet paper towel.

Sounds nice and quiet.

Just swapped out the end crimps with these through ones which goes to the switch mechanism, but I’m also going to attach this LED driver that’ll sit around the back here and hopefully power this Ikea Light.

So that’s a 1mm pitch.

I tapped the first hole a bit badly and then realised couldn’t fit a nut behind it would have been a bit too close to a flange within the cast head. So I decided to put a switch there instead and drill a new hole a little further above that.

I’ve wired it to the wrong one!

That’s really funny.

So now you can tell exactly where your drill bit is when you turn it on.

I made a nut which goes on the inside and locks that in place.

That turns on and the light stays on.

I’m now going to cut and tape some metal rods which happen to be the legs for a floor top drum.

Put some grease on this.

I’m now measuring up the top of the drill so I can cut a piece of neoprene rubber to fit between the cast iron body and the pulley guard. This will dramatically help reduce the noise of the machine.

I was a little off with some of the holes so I use this belt punch to nibble away at the neoprene to reveal the tapped holes underneath.

I probably should have wired a trip switch on the enclosure lid, so I have to be extra careful if I ever need to change the belt that I isolate the power from the machine. I also use the engineers straight edge to line all the pullies up.

The light is a little hotter than I’d like but I’ve left it on for four hours and it hasn’t spontaneously caught on fire. I also just fixed the back of my dial gauge which broke and now I’m going to check the morse taper again.  It’s about 0.02 or 0.03 of a mm. It’s very similar to what the model I returned had.

Ok I’ve managed to set it so it’s about 0.25mm deflection. It really is about hitting the chuck as hard as you can with a soft mallet so that it seats properly into the morse taper.

The last thing I did was tram the bed using a dial gauge clamped to arm across the chuck, and a hammer which I used to slightly adjust the tilt.

Ok I’ve got it to about 0.05mm.

Ok the last thing I did was place a few magnets at the top at the front of the drill where I could place my bits at easy reach. I’m quite happy with this but at the moment the base is a little bit wobbly so I need to prop that up on something or maybe thing of making another thing. This is quite wide I don’t have enough space in this corner.

Ok that’s the bench drill restoration video. I’m quite happy with this despite ordering some replacement parts which turned out to be for a more recent model, that I couldn’t send back. But restoring an old drill has worked out substantially cheaper and more enjoyable than buying a similar drill brand new however I don’t have a warranty with this but then again, I am the warranty. As usual don’t forget to sacrifice a thumb to the algorithm gods and let me know what you thought in the description bellow. Thanks again.