Files Available Via: https://www.thingiverse.com/educatingsavvas/designs
- Base (3D Printed) @ 1
- Turning Component (3D Printed) @ 1
- Magnet Mount (3D Printed) @ 1
- Wing Knob (3D Printed) @ 1
- Socket (3D Printed) @ 1
- M4 Nyloc Nuts @ 3
- M4x25 CS Machine Screw @ 3
- M5 Nyloc Nut @ 1
- M5x15mm Washer @ 1
- M5x40mm CS Machine Screw @ 1
- Magnets M4x15x2mm @ 3
- Shelf Pins M5 @ 1
In this video I’m going to present and assemble a 3D printed magnetic saw guide – which I designed in fusion 360, and printed on my heavily calibrated Prusa Mini. The design is based on the Nobex 505 Magnetic Saw Guide – which isn’t a particularly pricey bit of kit, so before you ask why I made one myself I’ll answer – maybe I don’t just want one.
It’s also a task to maintain and practice my CAD modelling skills. An activity to do while in lockdown, and because making is a source of entertainment and interest for myself. It is also a DIY tool that could be part of induction or workshop projects that I could introduce one I get back to my day job – in higher education.
The 3D printed parts cost about £2.60 in material, although they are made from standard PLA, and a more durable material would cost a little more. In total, factoring electricity and the remaining parts the cost is under £10 which is a massive saving of £21 compared to the shop board version, and as long as I don’t factor my own hourly rate in the equation.
I’m going to shut-up now, and let you enjoy the video, but I’ll be back at the end to describe the parts in more detail, and where I made some changes to the design.
Well the problem I have at the moment, is I don’t have a saw so I’m going to have to simulate this with a knife. I may need to put some PTFE adhesive tape at the front to just make it a bit smoother. And I think the magnets are a bit to strong for the application. Maybe something 2-3mm thick instead of 10mm would be better. Maybe only two as well. But the principle works as well, this edge here provides a positive edge against the material and the saw would glide across that. And it’s just a matter of using a permanent marker pen to indicate the numbers degrees where I did the tiny dots.
So I redesigned this two components so that some M4 Nyloc nuts fit at the end here and I have a shallower recess here for some thinner magnets, and I think this is a better combination. So I’ll just assemble this now.
Shit! These magnets actually cracked.
So be careful not to overtighten the machine screws as it will crack the magnets if overtightened.
Despite the opening on the magnets being 4mm the countersink is more like an M3 machine screw tapper, so the head sits a little proud – and if over tighten the head wedges the magnets until they break. This time I stopped the second I felt some resistance, and because I’m using nyloc nuts I don’t have to worry about anything coming loose. And you can check with a flat edge that nothing is protruding which could deflect or damage the tool, and not it’s pretty much ready to go, but I still don’t have a hand saw at my flat!
So you’re just going to have to just imagine the rhythmic sound of the saw thrusting back and forth, singing it’s love grunts to the act of cutting.
So I think that’s more or less it. The squareness and accuracy of your parts really depends on your 3D printer and I have several videos about calibrating 3D printers which I’ll link too in the description. I’ll also make the files available in a few different places, again which I’ll link too in the description.
And that leaves me with the final thing to say which is thanks again for watching, don’t forget to sacrifice a thumb to the algorithm gods and you’ll catch me in the next one – doing what you love.