I wanted to illustrate the method I decided to use when cutting mitres on plastic sheets. I had up to this point tried to use the table saw with the blade at an angle, and a V shaped router bit held above the material, both of which didn’t work. I have noticed a lot of videos about tilting router table, but there was no real explanation of what the advantage was and I cannot find a commercially available tilting router table. I came to the conclusion that to produce the best effect I would have to build a tilting router insert, which allowed the tip to produce at roughly 45 degree from the table surface. Extending just shy of the thickness of the material you want to cut. The main advantage to this is the rotation of the bit flicks the plastic away from the cutting line leaves as cleaner finish. The insert was not entirely flat against the table, until I added four grub screws to the insert, which can be seen in the assembly video. The other observation to make is even more so on clear plastic, pushing the material at an even feed rate helps produce a cleaner finish, compensating for the build up of heat against the moving part.
In terms of gluing, there are several methods and I am open to suggestions. However I was taught to use liquid solvent cement / dichloromethane glue, applied with a small brush. In this instance I used an applicator with a very thin needle, which through capillary action allows the weld to flow into the space between the two surfaces. I forgot to clean my cut line with acetone which may have left some greasy finger marks and prevented a visually uniformed glue joint. Had I used coloured Perspex I would not have known, but as I was working with clear material on closer inspection I could see the weld did not penetrate entirely with small bubbles being visible. That or I didn’t apply enough glue? In any case I have happy with the first attempt on a partially built tilting router table.