Panelled Doors for Lathe Cabinet

00:04 Installing lathe onto stand.
00:40 Routering channel in timber.
01:16 Dry fitting pieces.
01:47 Melodic glue-up montage.
03:45 Installing doors to cabinet.
05:01 Final touches / Sigh of relief.


So I’ll rush through this part – installing the lathe onto the stand as it is.  I use a couple blocks of 2 by 4 to raise the height up, and give myself some room to reach under the machine. The original bolts were too small and I replaced them with an m12 threaded rod which I cut down using the angle grinder.

I’m not utilising the full width of the lathe so the bars are overhanging but if for some reason I find myself turning something quite wide I can always build an extension to the stand.

I did not plane the timber before making the panel doors – instead selecting the straightest pieces I could fine.  These are already cut to size – although I later realised I’d made a mistake and had to re-cut them.  I am a mere mortal too, but I’m not going to show you that.

To make the channel I am using a ¼ two flute solid carbide up spiral bit, which came from my CNC machine.  The router is mounted into a tilting insert base that I also made.  These bits are a lot nicer to work with then the straight edge flutes but they are a little more pricier.

When it came to dry assembling the panels I noticed the fit was a little tight.  It turned out that the router had started to tilt, which forced the timber pieces askew thus them not marrying up in the corners.  In any case I took the pieces back to the router and gave them another pass.

I was happier with the second dry assembly and decided to press on gluing the panels together.  I think the groove for the panel was a little less the 1cm deep, but I can’t remember exactly now.

If you’d like to skip the melodic glue up montage press the annotated button on screen now

You may have noticed I only have either short or long clamps – the long in this case being too long.

So I sanded the panels and prepared to install them to the stand. I held them up against the frame and they seemed to fit quite tightly.  That’s a good sign.

Now I have a lazy way of hollowing out the mortise for the hinges.  I use the table saw – this is not the best way to do it but in any case I did, and over cut the mortise.

I’ve heard it said a good carpenter should know how to hide his or her mistakes, so if you also have a tendency of being a good carpenter every now and then this part might be of interest.

If your hinge is set too deep the door won’t close properly so you can do one of the following – You can place piece of card underneath the hinge to lift it or plane the edge of the panel, but that will increase the gap between the two doors.  Mine are tighter rather than looser so I can get away with the latter, also adding a slight angle towards the front of the door.

The final thing I did was plane the two outer edges of the door so the gap seemed consistent.

If you listen carefully you can even hear the doors sighing in relief.

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